Showing posts with label Genoa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Genoa. Show all posts

Monday, 1 November 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 01/11/2010


Another rainy day, viewed through a steamy bus window. Still, I got lots of knitting done, much of it to  a sparkling Cary Grant film, His Girl Friday.

I fly back tomorrow, and am thinking of keeping this series of posts up, alongside regular knitting content. What do you think? Are you sick of retro photo trickery?

Sunday, 31 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 31/10/2010


A somewhat sad and sodden Sunday. Almost everything was shut it town, so I came back to the hostel and finished both of my knitting projects - thank goodness I took an emergency ball of wool! It seems that tomorrow is a public holiday here, so I won't be able to use any libraries or archives... now I'm a bit worried of running out of emergency knitting! And, for that matter, food. But the knitting is my main preoccupation. I hope you have all been having happier Hallowe'ens. 

Saturday, 30 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 30/10/2010


Rather a less successful lonesome lunch today. The waitresses studiously ignored me (reminding me of that brilliant George S. Kaufman epitaph for a waiter: 'God finally caught his eye'), and, realising I was not a native speaker half-way through ordering pudding, started speaking very loudly and clearly at me ('This cake has PINE-NUTS - do you know what a PINE-NUT is?'). Then, as the figurative faded cherry on my slightly substandard fruit salad, what should come blaring over their speakers but Celine Dion's 'All By Myself'. I couldn't wait to leave.

Still, I suppose it could be worse. At least I didn't have to participate in the sinister sex-game 'Bunga Bunga' with Silvio Berlusconi, unlike 'Ruby', the latest barely-legal beauty to be connected to the president. Shudder.

Friday, 29 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 29/10/2010


The buses were on strike for almost all of today, so during the brief windows when a few were running they were overflowing with people, packed together in an intricate (and sometimes uncomfortably intimate) human tessellation that left little room for breathing let alone knitting. Elsewhere, I'd just walk, but Genoa is a murderously mountainous place, and the youth hostel sits right at the summit of one of its peaks. 

How about you, readers? Do you commute? Are you lucky enough to take a form of transport that allows you to knit/sew/sit down? I do hope you've all had lovely Fridays.

Thursday, 28 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 28/10/2010



How could I do a series of photos from Italy without any food? It is everywhere, from artistically arranged confectionary in the windows of the pasticcerie, to the scent of cooking seeping out through cracks in shutters. Shops (and archives) routinely shut at 12.30 or 1 and open again at 3; no speedy sandwiches wolfed down at desks here. 

The thing is, I'm not always very good at taking advantage of all this bounty when I'm here all by myself. I tend to find a quiet place to perch and eat a little slice of pizza or focaccia, perhaps supplemented with some fruit if I feel I'm in danger of catching scurvy. I don't mind spending time on my own - in fact solitary exploring is one of my favourite things to do - but this has not so far extended to eating out. I have always been foolishly fearful of asking for a table for one.

This lunch, however, was different. Inspired in part by the sweet video below, which seems to be all over the craft blogs at the moment, and in part by the fact that it was just too darn cold to sit outside, I faced my fear, and went into a bustling restaurant. I didn't feel like a loser, no one gave me pitying looks, and I had an unbelievably delicious meal, pictured above. Definitely an experience I would repeat.

Wednesday, 27 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 27/10/2010



The fountain in Piazza De Ferrari is a constant source of inspiration. I took these two pictures next to it within seconds of each other on my lunch break today. The girl at the top was rather ostentatiously taking photos with her vintage camera; I very surreptitiously took one of her with my faux vintage camera. The couple at the bottom are just about to embrace and leave in opposite directions.

Tuesday, 26 October 2010

Shooting From The Hip: Genoa 26/10/2010


The cool, gilded elegance of the Durazzo-Giustiniani archive in Genoa, where I have been reading the household account books of a sixteenth-century noblewoman.

Wednesday, 13 October 2010

The adventures of Elphaba, the Wicked Witch of All Over the Place.


 
I have been working on the Elphaba Pullover (ravlink) in a whole variety of places: in early morning Stansted; on the steps of the Palazzo Ducale; in a youth hostel dorm; by the fountain in Piazza De Ferrari; in the very cool Caffè degli Specchi; in front of the spurious Christopher Columbus' house; by the columned cloister behind said house; on a plane (I was so pleased to sneak my Addis safely past security - the first time I've attempted to do so); and on the Cambridge Express. I enjoy knitting the memories of all these various locations into a project, though I am aware that these are not good photos of either the knitting, which as it grew became increasingly difficult to wedge into the shot, or the places - so to remedy this, here are a few more of my favourite photos from my recent trip to Genoa.
A small girl blowing bubbles by the fountain
A student demonstration on the steps of San Lorenzo cathedral
I found myself drawn to doorways...


... and niches.

Dog on a night bus.


Thursday, 7 October 2010

Postcards from Italy



I'm on an extremely shaky internet connection in a youth hostel, but I couldn't resist the Beirut-inspired title of this post, and sharing a few snaps (sorry, I know I said I'd lay off the Hipstamatic, but I can't help myself!).


Sunday, 21 March 2010

Genoa: S. Lorenzo Cathedral

I have finished a hat, but it was so miserable and rainy today that I couldn't muster the enthusiasm to whip out my gorilla pod and strike a pose. Instead, here are some photos of Genoa's S. Lorenzo Cathedral. It has been likened to 'a giant humbug'...


The image on the bottom right shows what appears to be a small dog carved into the space between two spindly columns, on the right side of the façade. Someone told me a story about it which I have now entirely forgotten, but I expect it was something along the lines of Greyfriar's Bobby, or, for that matter, Hachiko, whose bronze likeness surveys Shibuya station, near my childhood home in Tokyo. These canines are pretty clever at getting themselves immortalised, it seems to me.

Friday, 19 March 2010

Genoa: Porto Antico

Genoa in general, and its port in particular, used to have a distinctly unsavoury reputation. It spruced itself up considerably, though, in 1992 to celebrate the quincentenary of sometime inhabitant of the city Christopher Columbus' 'discovery' of America, and again in 2004 when it was designated European City of Culture. Today the Porto Antico  is rather a nice place to take a stroll, as I did today. 

Clockwise from bottom left: Aquarium and Neptune's Galley (apparently used in Roman Polanski's 1986 film Pirates); Prawns on sale next to the port; the port, taken from up the hill at Righi, with the symbolic Lanterna (lighthouse) in the middle; Renzo Piano's Bigo; detail of aforementioned Neptune's Galley


Though most commercial activity takes place elsewhere now, Genoa's bond with the sea is still evident here in physical form, as well as in popular culture, such as the wistful song 'Da a me riva' by Genoese singer-songwriter Fabrizio de André. I can't seem to find an English translation of the Genoese dialect on the whole of the internet, so have attempted my own (please feel free to correct any infelicities, or wrong bits):

From my shore
only your white handkerchief
from my shore
in my life
your bitter smile
in my life
excuse the lump in my throat
but I am thinking of you against the sun
and I know you are looking at the sea
just off the coast of pain
and I am here, in front of
this sailor's trunk
and I am here looking at
three velvet shirts
two blankets and a mandolin
and a hardwood inkpot
and a photo of you as a girl
in a black beret
to be able to kiss Genoa once more
on your mothballed mouth.

Isn't 'naftalina' a far prettier word for mothballs than mothball?

Wednesday, 17 March 2010

(Kn)Italy

Myself, my knitting, and one ugly but undeniably useful new backpack have been transplanted to Genoa, on the hunt for history. I might blog a little bit about the city while I'm here, as I think it is unfairly underrepresented in current travel literature about Italy.


Yeuch. I can't decide whether this piece of dorsal apparatus makes me feel like I'm 14 and on my way to French or I'm 30 and on my way to a job in a computer magazine.

Saturday, 5 September 2009

Murals


While the vital link between my camera and my laptop wends its way down the country, I thought I'd take a trawl through some photographic backwater. I find the artistic combinations of paint and wall endlessly fascinating, and in my European peregrinations over the past year I have snapped my shutter at more examples of decorated buildings and walls than you could shake a spray can at. Here is the alleyway I used to walk down to get to the State Archives in Genoa, so garlanded with tags that what might have started off as assertions of individualism fused into a single abstract riot of colours.
Genoa has a long tradition of painted buildings, ranging from the exquisite fading frescoes on Palazzo Spinola, one of the villas along the sixteenth-century aristocratic ghetto of Strada Nuova...

... to simpler trompe-l'oeil masonry and window shutters, still common on many houses today. The embellished surfaces of walls and buildings are an integral part of the civic fabric; they are not locked away in a gallery overnight, but are instead engaged in a constant dialogue with the city that moves around them. This holds true whether they are furtively scrawled on a wall, or whether they are officially sanctioned, as I imagine the large-scale murals in La Latina in Madrid are:

- or whether they seem to be making an anti-establishment statement, as in these three examples from Genoa, Madrid and Paris - the first reads 'Is a home a right?', the second something like 'What would the politicians think?', the third 'Does what you can get for free have a price?' (this is by an artist called Miss-Tic, whose work I saw all over Paris).


I find this next one rather mysterious - it says 'I find myself/I am found behind' and is on a crumbling building in a little square off Strada Nuova in Genoa.


I'm not whether this is all one piece or not, but I like the idea that someone has graffiti-ed the graffiti, as well as its Pop Art aesthetic. I found a lot of clever, stylish murals in Paris.

I'm not sure that this final example truly fits in, but I couldn't resist wedging in a little bit of history. It is from the tiny, charming Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, a former-Mosque-turned-Christian-chapel in Toledo, and appears to show some angels taking the soul of a dead girl (either that or playfully tugging at a table-cloth).

Although some of the stencilled examples above could probably easily and quickly be reproduced elsewhere, I like how art on walls becomes part of both the particular wall that it is on - if it is not removed, the coating suffers the ravages of time and weather along with the surface it coats - and of the life that goes on around it.

Saturday, 28 February 2009

Ups and downs in Genoa

In this past month or so that I have been living in Genoa, one of the things I have enjoyed most has been the numerous quirky modes of transportation. My journey into town in the morning is usually uplifting, involving a ride in the stately ascensori of Castelletto. They spill their contents into a tunnel - here is its exit.

This says 'When I make up my mind to go, I'll go to heaven in the Castelletto lift'.
As for the return leg of my daily commute, let's just say it puts the 'fun' back into funicula.

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